Periyar Tiger Reserve
Species:
Bonnet macaque, lion-tailed macaque.
Overview:
An azure blue lake. Blackened tree stumps protruding from
the water like an army of ancient totems. The
kaei.kaei.sound of the osprey carrying across the waters.
And the green forest stretching away into the hills.
Periyar, situated just 10 degrees above the equator, takes
your breath away with images you are unlikely to witness
anywhere else in India. Situated in the Cardamom Hill
Ranges of Kerala's Idukki District, south of the Western
Ghats, this fabulous tiger reserve sprawls across 777 sq.
km. of biodiversity-rich forests out of which 350 sq. km.
are protected as core, or undisturbed wilderness. One of
India's truly 'great escapes' the picturesque 26 sq. km
many-fingered lake, a distinctive feature of the park that
was created by the British in 1885 when they dammed the
Periyar River, is a passport to the nether regions of the
forest. Although more that 40 tigers hunt the forests, the
chances of actually seeing one here are very low because
the reclusive cat wisely prefers the more quiet interiors,
away from the throb of boats and the chatter of humans.
But there is probably no better place in India to watch
the amazing family life of the Asiatic elephant. With
plenty of food and water, these gentle giants have lived
here for time immemorial. But danger now lurks around each
corner. Poachers have so persistently infiltrated the
forest that they have picked off almost all the truly
large tuskers, which accounts for the difficulty in
sighting them today. The Kerala-Tamil Nadu interstate line
from Kumily in the north, the Ranni and Kakki Reserved
Forests and the Kottayam Division forests defines the
boundary of Periyar. Located in the Western Ghats, which
are geologically believed to be among the oldest mountain
chains in the world, Periyar has a most unique diversity
of both terrain and vegetation. The reservoir, bounded by
hills, is the central feature and is drained by the
Periyar and Mullayar river systems. The Periyar River
itself originates from deep within the near-virgin
evergreen core area, 50 km. south of the sanctuary
headquarters at Thekkady. It meets the Mullayar at
Mullakudy, from where the lake starts. The river then runs
on for some 244 km. before emptying into the Arabian Sea.
The black stumps of old hard wood trees, some jutting out
of the water and others submerged (it takes an expert
boatman to avoid the stakes), are eerie reminders of a
rainforest that was drowned because humans wanted abundant
year-round supplies of water. Although there are 59
species of mammals in Periyar, it is the elephants that
dominate the landscape and are the most visible to
visitors. There are an estimated 800 pachyderms in Periyar
and they live in family groups led by a matriarch. Normal
sightings are of herds with young feeding, hosing
themselves down with mud or water, or simply swimming
along the lakeshore. Young ones never stray too far from
the adults as the threat from tigers to defenceless young
is very real. Used to the sound and sight of boats, the
elephants carry on with their usual routine, undisturbed
by camera-wielding tourists. With their ancient migratory
routes cut off by the reservoir, many elephants now swim
to locate favoured food sources and the sight of these
huge animals, fully submerged with only their trunks
visible like periscopes, is one of the more unforgettable
Periyar experiences. Sadly few really large tuskers are
seen today as most have been killed by poachers for the
value of their ivory. Recently, even young tuskers have
been picked off to get at their ivory, often less than a
100 cm. long. Clawless otters provide hours of
entertainment for visitors. They swim and fish in the
waters of the reservoir and can be seen bounding along the
slippery, muddy shores, wet and shiny like playful pups.
Low off the ground, their practice of standing on hind
legs to look out for danger is an endearing habit and they
are a favourite with photographers. Sounders of wild boar
are easily spotted, rooting about the shores for tubers
and succulent shoots. If you sit out at night near the
forest rest houses, you are quite likely to see both
porcupine and wild boar that come nosing around garbage
dumps for something to eat. One animal that competes with
the tiger for prey is the dhole, or wild dog. Though a
number of tourists have reported seeing dholes, you must
consider yourself particularly blessed if you return
having seen these magnificent dogs. These brown,
bushy-tailed canines have an exceedingly well-organised
pack life and their yips and whistles reverberate across
the waters of the reservoir when they are out on a
community hunt. Four different types of monkeys are found
in Periyar. These are the highly threatened lion-tailed
macaque, the bonnet macaque, the Nilgiri langur (ask to be
shown one large troupe that seems to have taken up
residence near the reception area) and the common langur
(more easily seen towards the eastern parts of Periyar).
By and large, because macaques prefer the interiors of the
tree canopy, which is barely visible from the boat, they
are difficult to spot in Periyar, even though their
numbers are relatively large. Pythons and cobras are
animals of the deep evergreen forest. Flying (they
actually only glide) lizards and snakes travel from tree
to tree, the former with the aide of a flap between its
extremities and the latter by flattening its body into a
sail-like shape. The flying snake is a particularly
beautiful reptile and is brilliantly coloured in yellow
and black with crimsonish rosette-like patterns. Another
aerial creature is the flying frog, which is able to glide
thanks to extra webbing on its toes. The watercourses
harbour at least 50 species of fish, including the golden
mahseer.
Trails
and excursions:
The best way to explore Periyar is by boat, but you also
have the option of spending time atop watchtowers. If you
are there when the Sterculia tree is in fruit, you will be
presented with a feast of birdlife ranging from Mynahs to
Grey Hornbills. The Nilgiri langur and the occasional
sloth bear are often spotted from such well-positioned
towers. Don't forget to ask for a guide to take you
walking near the small patch of forest around the
reception area where you might be able to photograph a
troupe of Nilgiri langurs. With luck you could also see
Malabar giant squirrels, barking deer, and the fruit bats
called flying foxes (because of the shape of their heads)
in the same area. At Eddapaliyam, right from the hotel, it
is possible to sit back and enjoy the sight of gaur,
elephant and wild boar as they come out to graze from
inside the deep forest. Trekking is an option open only to
the serious naturalist. For such visitors, the Forest
Department provides guides who are local tribals. A walk
into the forest with such people is an experience unto
itself as you will come to learn about their customs,
mores and oral tales. In very special cases, the Field
Director may give you permission to boat up along the
Periyar river right to the core area, where huge mahseer
fish may be visible. There is a rest house here at
Thanikuddi. This is typical Hornbill country. If you do
get permission (by no means easy) you should look out for
tiger pug marks and sloth bear scats.
Best
season:
October - May is the best time. For elephant watching,
the hotter months of March - April are excellent. The
other water sources in the forest are low or dry and the
elephant herds spend more time at the reservoir. With the
grasses shorter, the other animals too are more easily
seen. Temperature: Winter: 15oC; Summer: 31oC. Mean annual
rainfall is 2030 mm. The southwest monsoon lasts from June
to August/September, with maximum rainfall in July-August.
High rainfall also occurs during the northeast monsoon in
September-October.
By
Air: Madurai (145 km.) and Cochin (190 km.) By Rail:
Kottayam (114 km.) on the Ernakulam-Thiruvananthapuram
line. By Road: From Madurai or Cochin cars can be hired.
Kottayam is the nearest major town, 115 km. to the west.
Within the reserve: Diesel boats cruise the waters,
enabling visitors to watch wild animals from a distance
without alarming them too much. A small part of the forest
is also accessible to those in search of more adventure in
the way of long jungle walks. Most boats are navigated by
expert pilots, and if you are lucky to get a particularly
enthusiastic and talented one you will be able to approach
birds and turtles quite close to their tree stump perches.
You might even be able to venture inside the smaller
creeks, from where the densely wooded forests are also
more visible.
Tips:
Most wildlife sightings on boat rides occur early in the
morning and late in the afternoon. Binoculars are
essential, for most sightings from the boat are too far to
really enjoy with the naked eye. Tribals are particularly
good at natural history, fishing, and even collecting wild
honey from hill bees, which they do at night to avoid
being stung. They climb to hives atop 30 m. high trees by
carving bamboo spikes into the trunk. You could try and
get a guide to take you along if you are so inclined.
Waterproof clothing should be carried because rain is
always a possibility in a 'rainforest'. If you are walking
in the deep forest especially in the heavy rains, remember
the leeches. Wear boots, socks, long trousers and
full-sleeved shirts. Of course, not much can stop a
determined leech, but try tobacco snuff smeared on your
shoes as a possible deterrent. Salt helps get them off.
