Manas Tiger
Reserve
Species:
Tiger, capped langur, wild buffalo, hoolock
gibbon, golden langur, elephant, pygmy hog.
Overview:
Against the backdrop of the Eastern Himalayas lies a
grass and jungle habitat of unparalleled beauty. Tigers,
elephants, golden langurs and Bengal Floricans share this
exquisite wilderness with other rare and endangered
species. And, as it flows down from the Eastern Himalayas
to the plains below, the silvery waters of the Manas river
nurture this paradise and the myriad creatures that reside
within. Smooth-pebbled and sandy-shingled, the Manas river
is the life blood of the forest and the great Himalaya,
blue and misty in the distance, a wall of protection. The
Manas forest extends on both sides of the river and
presents one of earth's most timeless vistas. As you watch
the magic unfold from the safe confines of the handsome
forest rest house at Mothanguri, a herd of elephants may
silently make an appearance on the distant opposite bank,
lending a touch of the ethereal to an earthly paradise.
Little wonder then, that Manas was chosen by UNESCO to be
a World Heritage site. But Manas has had a troubled past.
And its future is still far from secure. The idyllic
splendour of the tiger reserve, which represents the
entire biotope, was shattered for nearly a decade by what
came to be known as the Bodo struggle.
The thick forests were used as a hiding place by armed
militants who took a vicious toll on wildlife and the
rhino population, for instance, was brutally decimated and
traded in for cash. Those who misused the forest for
terrorist activities took human lives too, targetting
forest guards in particular. Manas was closed to visitors
for years, but was reopened in October 1995. Though a
tentative peace prevails, the park itself has never quite
recovered from the aftermath of the insurgency. Poachers
and timber smugglers continue to wreak havoc. Home to the
wild buffalo, elephant, tiger and rhino, Manas harbours
the maximum number of endangered species from India as
listed in the IUCN Red Book. Lying in the foothills of the
outer Himalaya, the low-lying and flat Manas habitat is a
linear belt that extends between the Sankosh river to the
West and the Dhansiri river in the east. The Manas river
flows through the western portion of the sanctuary,
splitting into the Boki and Hakua in the centre of the
reserve. It later joins the mighty Brahmaputra 64 km.
further south.
An area of startling diversity, the gently sloping
alluvial plains are watered by countless rivulets, streams
and nullahs that carry large amounts of silt, pebbles and
even huge boulders downstream at the height of the
monsoons! This ageless process has led to formation of
alluvial terraces, comprising deep layers of deposited
rock and detritus overlaid with sand and soil of varying
depth, shifting river channels and swamps. The terrain is
characterised by rocky, porous soils like sandstone,
limestone and shale in the bhabar tract towards the north.
The coarse detritus is covered with sandy loam and a fine
layer of humus. Rich alluvial soils from the Himalayan
wash are found in the Terai belt towards the south, where
the water table lies very close to the surface. The Boki
basin is quickly inundated in the rains, but never for
long as the slopes encourage effective drainage. In the
lower reaches, beels or seasonal wetlands are formed just
within the boundary of the reserve before the river joins
the flood plains. In parts, sandy stretches allow clusters
of trees to grow isolated from each other by water. Away
from this 'pockmarked' terrain, towards the hills, great
mixed deciduous forests carpeted with grasses sprawl
upwards to the mountains. Wild buffalo and elephants
dominate the landscape. Rhinos used to be common, but have
been all but wiped out. Spectacular scenery, with a
variety of habitat types and diverse fauna, makes Manas
the richest of all Indian wildlife areas. The sanctuary is
part of an extensive migratory wildlife route along West
Bengal to Arunachal Pradesh and the borders of Bhutan. The
Asiatic Buffalo is one of the highlights of Manas and the
animal attains its maximum size here as compared to any
other place in Asia for there is no dilution with feral
stock. The wide sandy banks of the Manas and Boki rivers
rich in grasses and herbs are favourite gathering places
for the bovines though they bolt at the slightest hint of
sound or movement. Herds may be seen at the river.
Occasionally, you may witness a lone bull preparing to
fight. The characteristic toss of the huge head with its
impressive horns is a warning sign of impending
aggression. Larger than most other elephants on the
subcontinent, huge tuskers stroll in large herds across
the Manas river that divides Bhutan and India.
Since they travel long distances and are widely spread
over migration routes they are seen often foraging on
vegetation or bathing in river waters. The tiger and the
leopard are the predominant cats in the area but are
elusive to the casual visitor. The clouded leopard is
another cat that you may be lucky to spot. Primates
include the capped langur and the golden langur on the
Bhutan side of Manas. Both are shy and tend to stay high
up in trees safe from danger. The golden langurs (these
pale chestnut coloured simians sport lighter coats in
summer) are a stunning sight on the elegant flowering
trees that they inhabit and the only place on the Indian
side where they have been reported is in the Chakrasheela
forests of Assam. It is possible however to cross the
river at its narrowest and row across to the forests of
Bhutan to sight them. The slow loris and the Hoolock
gibbon also exist here but are rarely seen. Assamese
macaques, though rare, exist in the islands downstream
where they may be seen in large troupes. If you look out
for it, you might spot a pair of attractive Malay tupaia
or tree shrew, grey-brown animals with pointed noses and
bushy tails. The pygmy hog and the hispid hare (Assamese
rabbit) are tiny grassland mammals that still survive in
Manas. Their future depends on the future of the sanctuary
especially on the reduced burning of grassland. They are
not often sighted. Manas is home to as many as 22 of the
41 Indian species that are classified as 'highly
endangered' i.e. under Schedule I in the IUCN Red Book.
The hog deer or pada , barking deer or muntjac,
chital and sambar abound. A peculiarity with the sambar
and most large deer in this region is the development of a
reddish sore-like patch on their throats. The swamp deer
is found in occasional pockets. Sloth bears tend to stay
in thick-forested areas, but can be seen at dawn and dusk.
Wild pigs are easily seen around rivers and watercourses,
where they seek tubers. The river is a great place to
spend your day and you may chance upon a pack of otters or
water monitors here.
Trails and
excursions :
Wildlife sighting at Manas is neither regular nor
frequent, but when it does occur, it is usually at close
range. Jeep trails through the forest yield a wide variety
of birds and animals. Look in the undergrowth as well as
the treetops. The endangered Bengal Florican stays
camouflaged along the marshes along jheels bordered by dry
scrub and high grass, but can be spotted easily during the
mating season when their aerial displays are prominently
visible. River banks are another sighting spot for
elephant and buffalo. Cross over to the Bhutan part of the
reserve (with permissions, of course!) for an almost
certain sighting of the golden langur. A small rowing boat
is used to go across the narrow, shallow part of the river
for a short trip. The summer palace of the King is
located in the park and is worth a visit. Bhutanese
tribals weave colourful fabric for sale. Remember to take
permission from The Forest Department before venturing
out. A monastery and shrine of the Vaishnavite reformer,
Mahadeva, a great disciple of Lord Shankar exists in the
district of Barpeta, which is where the Manas National
Park is also located. The associated kirthanghar
is renowned and attracts Vaishnavites from all over
India.
Best season:
The climate is typically moist tropical. The temperatures
in summer are at a tolerable 35°C with nights at 18.3°C.
The winters are cool with a maximum temperature of 24°C
and the minimum at a chilly 7.2°C. Rainfall between
3,332 mm. to 4,489 mm. is a regular feature. Heavy
downpours that flood the park are not uncommon. The
humidity is high, up to 76 per cent. November and February
are deemed to be the best seasons, though it rains here
only from mid-May to September providing a fairly long
visiting season from October to April. Trips into the
forest are only permitted between sunrise and sunset; the
timings are 0900 to 1200 hrs and 1400 to 1700 hrs.
Transport:
By Air: Guwahati airport is 176 km. away. By Rail:
Barpeta Road (40 km.) is the closest railhead to Guwahati.
From here, one can continue onto Manas by road. Barpeta
Road also serves as the sanctuary headquarters. By Road:
Manas is accessible from Guwahati (176 km.), Kaziranga
(403 km.), Darjeeling (466 km.), Shillong (287 km.) and
Siliguri (386 km.) . Vehicles can be taken up to
Mothanguri. Jungle visits may be on elephant back, jeep or
car. With special permission boat rides are possible.
Walking on foot is not permitted, but trips across the
river to Bhutan, which involve walking, do provide a great
feel of the forest. Elephant rides from Mothanguri are an
interesting way to get around the park. Reservations
must be made in advance through the Range Forest Officer.
The chowkidar at the forest rest house will help you.
Another exciting prospect is to hire a boat at Mothanguri
and spend a blissful day floating downstream watching
wildlife near the water.
Tips:
Ensure that you make time for a trip across the river to
Bhutan for which you need permission from the authorities.
Permits to visit can be obtained from the Field Director's
Office in Barpeta Road. The drive from Barpeta Road to
Manas is scenic with the Bansbari tea plantations and the
picturesque semul bordering the roads. The gravel path
crawls past the beautiful grassy expanse that affords
animal sightings even on the way to the reserve. Watch out
for stinging red ants that may drop from their leaf nests
whilst on elephant back! While on elephant back, look out
for spiders that spin webs across treetops, bird nests and
other small fauna. Stunning orchids are on display from
March to May. Drive slowly at a maximum speed of 30 km.
per hour within the reserve. Do not honk, overtake or
leave the prescribed route. Visitors are not permitted to
disembark from the vehicle at any point. There are no
catering arrangements in the forest lodges, so visitors
are required to bring their own provisions. Utensils,
crockery and the services of a cook may be available on
request and a small payment. Tips are appreciated.
