Kanha Tiger
Reserve
Species:
Tiger, chital, langur, gaur, Dhole, peacock
Overview:
The Kanha Tiger Reserve
is prime tigerland... the epitome of Kipling country with
sal forests of sunlight and shadows, a myriad streams,
rolling meadows and all the wildlife imaginable. Home to
one of the world's most endangered deer - the hardground
barasingha - this amazing National Park helped pioneer the
advent of scientific conservation management in India. It
is justifiably held out as one of Project Tiger's star
success stories. Virtually everyone who visits Kanha comes
away moved by its magnificent diversity. Most visitors
return. Kanha lies to the east of the Central Indian
highlands (that stretch east-west across Madhya Pradesh)
in the Maikal hills of the ancient Satpura mountain range.
Its flat-topped hills (500 -1,000 m) support grassy
meadows, or maidans. Well-watered valleys, rich with
forests, ascend in steps from West to East. The river
Sulkum, a tributary of the Banjar, flows through Kanha and
is its principal source of water. The area teems with
diverse wild animals typical of Indus-Ganges monsoon
forests. The Banjar and Halon Valley forests form the
western and eastern halves of Kanha. The low-lying Banjar
Valley floods over in the rains leaving rich soils. The
southern source of the mighty and now controversial
Narmada River lies in the Maikal hills. There is every
chance of seeing a tiger on early morning elephant rides,
or from vehicles both in the morning or evening.
Barasingha deer, star attraction of Kanha, often adorn
their antlers with tufts of grass in the rutting season.
They are not exactly easy to see, but sightings are
possible. Once restricted to the Kanha meadows the deer
can now be seen in other meadows as well. Mammals such as
the leopard, jungle cat, sloth bear, wild dog (dhole) and
the mongoose are usually encountered by sheer chance.
Jackals are more frequently seen patrolling their turf,
usually in search of fawns or other small prey. Gaurs
prefer highlands and the most reliable sightings are to be
had in the Mukki range. Only the largest tigers will try
to bring down a bull gaur. Chital deer can be seen in
herds numbering hundreds. Wildboar, preyed upon by
leopards and tigers, are common almost everywhere.
Four-horned antelope or chausingha, blackbuck and nilgai
can also be seen, but less frequently. The Hanuman langur
and palm squirrels are ubiquitous. Some animals are
difficult to sight. These include the hyena, blackbuck,
chevrotain (mouse deer, only 300 cm. tall!), porcupines,
sambar and barking deer (or muntjac), (found in small
numbers). Pythons and cobras, though common, are difficult
to spot.
Trails and excursions:
As with other wildlife
areas, early mornings are the most rewarding. Silent
rounds on elephant back provide you with an incomparable
feel of the forest, its smells and sounds. Tiger trackers
locate elephants and the park authorities offer to take
tourists to the spot when one is sighted. But in recent
years this practice has come in for considerable criticism
from conservationists and animal rights activists who
rightly point to the cruelty and danger to the tiger,
which is often kept away from water or food sources for
hours by a phalanx of elephants. The tiger tends to stay
quiet to conserve its energy during the day. But it
patrols its territory at dawn and dusk, which is when you
stand the best chance to spot it from a vehicle. Tracking
tigers on elephant back can be an exhilarating experience.
One sets out early in the morning from Kisli, Kanha or
Mukki to a flat nullah or a grassy glade. Pugmarks or drag
marks of a kill, or langur and deer alarm calls provide
clues to the whereabouts of the secretive cat.
Anticipation is nine-tenths of the pleasure of being out
in the forest and visitors very often come across such
rare and delightful sights as a leopard striding across a
road in broad daylight, or a monitor lizard or python
basking in the early morning sun. Gaur, the world's
largest ox, prefer to keep to hilly tracts watered by
perennial springs. In the evenings they normally come out
to graze in nearby meadows. Mukki, is probably the best
area for gaur. Sambar, chausingha and nilgai also frequent
the areas and sloth bear too. Birds like the Marsh Harrier
are also found at these elevations. For a breathtaking
view of the Kanha expanse and the Banjar Valley, a late
afternoon drive out to Bahmnidadar (850 m.) makes for an
unforgettable outing. The drive takes you through rich
forests of haldu and dhaora, festooned by climbers and
framed with clumps of giant bamboo. Leopards are
frequently spotted on this track, as are barking deer,
sambar and jungle fowl.
Best season:
The climate is extreme,
with summer (April-June) temperatures rising to 43ºC.
The monsoons wash the forests from mid-June to September
when an average of 1,800 mm. of rain falls. Winters
(November - February) can be quite cold, when frost often
cloaks the meadows. December to June is the best time for
a visit. The park is closed during monsoon months as the
roads are not navigable between mid-June and October (they
are fully repaired by November). December-January happens
to be the rutting season for the barasingha, whose raucous
calls can be heard echoing across the glades. Large herds
can now be seen in the meadows of Kanha and Sonph, where
stags joust for the right to mate with females.
By Air and By Rail:
Jabalpur and Nagpur are
easy to reach by air or rail. Taxis are available for hire
from Jabalpur and Nagpur. Khatia and Mukki are the main
entry points for the park. From Jabalpur, Kisli (a village
area close to the forest) where most of the tourist lodges
are located is 165 km. Mukki is a little further (203
km.). From Nagpur, Kisli is 259 km. by road. Mukki is 287
km. Within the reserve: Park visits are permitted only
during daylight hours. Elephant rides early in the morning
from Kisli, Kanha or Mukki can be arranged. Four people
sit on the howdah with an experienced mahout. Fees must be
paid while booking the ride.
Tips:
Bookings for a
morning drive or on elephant back into the park should be
made the previous day. In addition to the Kanha meadow,
ask to be taken to Bahmnidadar, Mukki and Shravan Tal from
Kisli. Each has its own flavour and mood. At Kisli a
restaurant serves both Indian and Western food and a
cheaper canteen serves reasonably priced meals and snacks.
A soft drink at the Kanha Safari Lodge at Mukki can be a
godsend after a hot and dusty forest drive (mineral water
and beer are also available!). Where possible, pay in
advance for your lodging by bank draft and carry enough
cash for unforeseen expenses. If foreign currency
encashment is required, the State Bank at Mandla (65 km.
away) is the nearest facility. If you plan to visit, keep
at least three nights in hand, both for better chances of
seeing the tiger and to let the feel of the jungle really
seep into you. Be prepared for the cold of the winter or
the heat of the summer. The climate is extreme. Cotton
clothes worn in layers keep one fairly warm, but woollens
are essential as early mornings and late evenings can be
cold. The moving jeep makes the cold really uncomfortable
so windcheaters and headgear must be standard equipment on
a winter trip.
