Bharatpur (Keoladeo
Ghana) Bird Sanctuary
Species:
Migratory waterfowl, warblers, raptors
Overview
In the nesting season the sound of birds can be so loud
as to drown out human conversation! And the buzz of
insects pervades the air, always. Grass grows out from the
still waters of the many wetlands, together with lotus,
duckweed, water fern and sedge - food for countless living
things such as frogs, snails, mosquitoes, dragonflies,
fish, water snakes and birds that collectively conspire to
make the Keoladeo Ghana National Park in Bharatpur,
Rajasthan, a World Heritage and Ramsar Site.
This is arguably one of
the most unique bird habitats on the earth. Those who knew
him confirm that Dr. Salim Ali, the grand old man of
ornithology, was happiest here, in the midst of nature and
the birds he lived to study and enjoy.
At one time hundreds of
Siberian Cranes used to winter in the Ghana. Like white
ghosts in the mist they were lured here from other near
and far north Indian wetlands. The 'Sibes' used to arrive
at the Ghana from their breeding grounds in Siberia, 6,400
km. away for decades, is search of reliable food sources,
because all their summer supplies were snowed under.
In 1956 the area was
finally declared a bird sanctuary, but shooting was only
stopped in 1964. However, the Maharajah himself retained
personal shooting rights all the way through to 1972, when
the Wildlife (Protection) Act made it illegal. Bharatpur
was declared a Ramsar site in October 1981. The area was
declared a National Park in 1982 and a World Heritage Site
in December 1985.
Terrain
The Keoladeo Jheel
existed here long before the Maharaja of Bharatpur
constructed man-made dykes to attract birds for the duck
shoots. For this purpose the jheel was divided into 10
units, each with its own sluice gates to control water
levels. The extra water came from the nearby Ajan Bund, a
10 km. long weir, which, when it filled the lowland area,
caused a whole new world to emerge in the shape and form
of a magnificent marsh. Expert naturalists planted trees
for birds to roost on.
Sluices, canals and dikes from the Ajan Band inundate the
Ghana twice each year in July and September to a water
depth of between one and two metres (at Sapan Mori). But
even today, few people really understand just how crucial
catchment protection of the Gambhir and Banganga rivers
are to the survival and long-term success of this bird
haven. If these watersheds are not protected
over-siltation would quickly result and the sheer amount
of water required to keep the wetland ecology going
(almost 11 sq. km. of the park goes underwater after the
monsoon) would be dangerously reduced.
As the water levels
start to fall from October onwards, new land features
surface, with new food sources on offer to different
birds. This slow transition is another reason why the
diversity of birds is so high (just under 400). By June
relatively few water sources remain and only die-hard
avians are able to survive, with the competition having
driven other species to greener pastures.
Every few years the
monsoon fails. This makes the terrain even more difficult
for the birds because the shallow pools disappear
completely. This too is key to the ecology of the Ghana
for waterlogged trees are given a chance to recover and
grow more robust. On the bunds, which are really nothing
more than embankments that separate different marshes,
babul trees grow profusely and these provide perfect
nesting sites for a variety of birds including parakeets.
The soil is predominantly alluvial, but some of it is clay
that is carried in thanks to regular inundations.
The Ghana Canal runs
from northeast to northwest virtually bisecting the
sanctuary in half. A tarred and metalled road further
subdivides the park along another alignment (north to
east). Smaller raised paths and walkways have also come to
be lined with trees and these can take walkers deep into
the wetlands.
Vegetation/Flora
Ghana simply means "dense".
It possibly refers to the forests that may have covered
the present area once. The park lies 370 m. above sea
level and constitutes wetland, woodland, swamp, scrub and
pasture. Wetlands comprise half the area, while the others
occupy the rest.
The aquatic vegetation
of the marshes is rich and provides a valuable food source
for waterfowl. Plant species include water lilies the true
lotus, duckweed, water fern, sedges and lesser reed mace.
Wild rice grows in parts, attracting birds.
The other vegetation is typical of a semi arid zone
dominated by babul, ber, khejri, kadam and peepul. About
44,000 trees in this park are used for nesting.
Animals
In Bharatpur, you will
encounter squirrels whose whistles are often mistaken for
birds. Wildboar, snouts in the mud, search for tubers and
nutritious roots. Sambar are found especially in the
wetter areas, with nilgai, chital and blackbuck dominating
the drier areas. Mongoose are major robbers of nests.
Rhesus macaques and langurs are found here as also the
Indian porcupine and the blacknaped hare at night. Otters
and fishing cats, that feed on fish species such as rout,
saran, murrel and bata are found here. Pythons, cobras,
vipers, kraits, wolf-snakes, blind snakes, checkered
keelbacks, sand boas, monitor lizards, forest calotes,
skinks and turtles scavenge and keep the swamps clean. An
incredible number of tiny creatures buzz and zing across
the waters including dragonfies, damselflies, butterflies
and water beetles. Species that prey on them such as
preying mantises and spiders also thrive here. Jackals can
be heard howling at night through the park and with luck
you could see a small fishing cat or a leopard cat.
Birdlife
This is one of the
world's best-studied wetland ecosystems. If ever you need
to be well equipped with binoculars, telescope and
photography equipment it is here. Nesting for resident
birds, coincides with the arrival of the monsoon, which
brings in its wake all the food that hungry chicks need
for their development. In the crowded heronries, raucous
'fights' are commonplace as birds jostle for the best
breeding sites and for nesting material. Half-submerged
trees seem almost like they are bending with the weight of
birds in August, when crowded heronries of resident birds
can be studied. At this time herons, cormorants, egrets
and shags are all competing for space with each other for
such nesting sites. Often different birds share nests in
sequence (particularly in the case of raptors) and often
Open-billed and Painted Storks will be nesting within a
couple of metres of each other. Till the young ones are
able to take off and fend for themselves (around
November/December), there is a constant race to grab food
from the magical swamps that provide a virtual buffet
comprising such exquisite aquatic offerings as snails,
tadpoles and frogs, beetles, crustaceans and molluscs.
Jacanas use the
floating vegetation, treading like ballerinas on the broad
leaves that spread across the water bodies. Such
vegetation is also used by them to lay their eggs, safe
from terrestrial invaders.
By October when migrant
birds start to arrive, so do migrant birdwatchers! The
latter in search of geese, duck such as Gadwal, Wigeon,
shovelers, Garganey, teal and White-eyed Pochard. Around
now Rosy and Dalmatian Pelicans also arrive to compete
with resident Grey Pelicans for fish stocks.
Sandpipers, plovers and
snipe can be spotted wading on the edges of the marshes.
Scrub and forest species also support migratory birds such
as warblers and tits.
The most charismatic
and rare bird is, of course, the Siberian Crane. Its
well-studied behaviour and movements suggests it arrives
after travelling 6,400 km. from its Siberian home and that
it stays till March to feed and rest before making the
long journey back home for the summer. Interestingly, the
Siberian Crane is completely vegetarian.
One reason why this
miraculous bird haven is able to support such a large
number of birds is that each species eats different foods
and this reduces competition between them. For instance,
spoonbills prefer molluscs and weeds, herons gulp down
fish, geese graze like cows in a meadow and flamingoes
filter tiny planktonic materials from the waters. Quite
separately, raptors such as kites, harriers, eagles and
falcons are able to hunt rodents, snakes, lizards and,
when they can get to them, young birds in nests.
Away from the winter
migration season, birdwatchers can concentrate on such
species as herons, Moorhens, cormorants, Pied Kingfishers
and darters. These birds tend to nest on suitable trees
soon after the month of March, while lapwings and curlews
nest on the ground in the hottest months, keeping company
with bright yellow weaver birds that busy themselves
stripping long grass 'threads' to craft their nests.
As water sources dry
up, Sarus Cranes, the world's tallest flying birds, are
attracted to the Ghana from far and near. In March and
April perhaps around 400 individuals populate the park,
but they start moving out again when the monsoon arrives
and water is easily available elsewhere. Perhaps around
two or three dozen mating pairs stay back and their
breathtaking courtship dances around July, when their
sonorous calls float over the swamps, are wondrous to
watch.
A checklist of some of the birds of
Bharatpur:
Water Birds
(wetlands): Painted Stork, cormorant, egret, Open-billed
Stork, White Ibis, darter, shoveler, teal, Bronze-winged
and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Ruddy Shelduck, Demoiselle
and Sarus Cranes, gadwall, pintail, mallard, coot, Purple
Moorhens.
Raptors:
King Vulture, White-backed Vulture, Marsh Harrier, Crested
Serpent Eagle, Ring-tailed Fishing Eagle, Short-toed
Eagle, Blackwinged Kite, Pallas Fishing Eagle, Tawny
Eagle, Collared Scops Owl, Spotted Owlet, Dusky Horned
Owl.
Others:
Lark, pipit, kingfisher, dove, mynah, bulbul, Blue Jay,
oriole, Blossom-headed Parakeet, hoopoe, shrike,
bee-eater, wagtails, finch.
Migrants:
Siberian Crane, Steppe Eagle, Pale and Marsh Harriers,
Osprey, Common Teal, Indian Little ringed Plover
Best season
October to February is
the best time, for the migratory birds are there as well
as the residents. But the park is a treat all year round.
Summer temperatures reach a maximum of 47° C and a
minimum of 35° C. In winter the temperatures reach a
maximum of 35° C and a minimum of 5° C The monsoon
precipitation is about 69 cm. In August local birds start
their nest building and rear their young for the next few
months. October/November is when the migrants arrive. Most
stay till March including the Siberian Crane. Ground
nesters like the lapwings and curlews nest in summer and
this is also when cranes show their amazing courtship
dance. The weaverbirds build their pendulous nests just
before the rains and hundreds of them are found in the
park, a bank of ceaseless activity.
Transport
By
Air: Agra, 54 km. away is connected to all major
cities.
By
Rail: Bharatpur lies on the Mumbai-Delhi sector of
Western Railway.
The Fatehpur Janta Express leaves New Delhi at 2 p.m. and
arrives at Bharatpur station at 6.15 p.m. It departs from
Bharatpur at 8 a.m. reaching Delhi by 12.30 p.m.
By
Road: Agra is 54 km. away. There are regular buses
to Fatehpur Sikri, Jaipur and Deeg. Other options include
Alwar 117 km., Deeg 32 km., Delhi 182 km., Fatehpur Sikri
22 km., Jaipur 174 km., Mathura 36 km. and Sariska 130 km.
